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The Street Food Shuffle – Casino Hotel

Three chefs reveal their culinary innovations based on nostalgic street food they grew up eating

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FWD-Foodshoot

Three chefs reveal their culinary innovations based on nostalgic street food they grew up eating

Sample this: a fresh scoop of dahi vada ice cream sprinkled with some sev; grilled anchovies with coconut puree and sundried pesto; fondant potatoes slow-cooked and stewed in stalk and thyme paired with light snapper goujons. Would you ever imagine seeing these on the menu when you go scouting for street food while on holiday? Here is street food with a twist as from the kitchens of three leading chefs of Kochi who went on a trip down memory lane and brought it back for us on a plate, as curated gourmet dishes.

The Not so Small Natholi

FWD-Foodshoot

 

Chef-Asif-Ali

Chef Asif Ali
Executive Chef
Casino Hotel, Kochi
His Pick: Natholi (Anchovies) and Sardines

Natholi (anchovies) and chala (sardines) are staple choices of fish in the coastal haven of Kerala. Smelling pungent, but tasting divine, they are delicacies people relish both both at home, and outside.

These are served on on sheets of paper, and a glass or bottle of toddy or palm wine. This, added with the aesthetic feel of the thatched roof of a toddy shop, and the sea breeze (if located on a beach) is a muchrevelled dining experience in the state. We asked chef Asif to reinterpret his favourite dish. Fine dining is easily misconstrued as something too swanky, but chef Asif believes that the art of balancing taste with health comes with a lot of experimentation while overlooking the dubious notions of being overpriced.

As the saying goes, “natholi oru cheriya meen alla” (natholi is not a small fish), what made it catch your attention?

I have always enjoyed street food which is available in beaches, like fish stalls of Marina Beach in Chennai and the chat stalls of Bombay Chowpatty. In Kochi, I think of quick fried food and what comes to mind immediately is
natholi.

For something that just requires deep frying, what was your signature take on it?

I believe that food is only tasty if healthy. So while trying to reinterpret natholi, I wanted to ensure that none of the omega 3 fatty acids are lost and it’s preserved to the fullest without denaturing it. When fish is deeply fried the nutrients are lost. It is also very unhealthy because it carbonises the masala and the fish.

How would you explain your reinterpretation on natholi?

The biggest challenge was maintaining the crispiness without using the technique of deep frying. Thus, I brought in a contemporary spin by creating a Natholi wafer that’s toppled with sundried pesto and coconut curry leaf pesto. I can enjoy it with one bite and it’s also made to be crisp using a sandwich grill.

FWD-Foodshoot

What other fish do you experiment with?

Sardines is another common food that’s enjoyed in street food shops. It is best enjoyed when charred. What I did was medium cook the sardine meat by first mincing the fish with the bones, mixing it with green masala (ginger, garlic, shallots and kandari), wrapping it in aluminum foil and then steam it. It can be presented in the form of a kabab.

What would like to say about street food?

Healthy food can also be tasty. I hence try to experiment with street food while also remaining committed to my principle.

The Humble Piping Hot Vadas

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Chef-Michael-Saju

Chef Michael Saju
Executive Chef
Holiday Inn, Kochi
His Pick : The Classic ‘Vada’

As many would travel around the world with a suitcase, or camera, chef Michael travels with his beloved pack of cutlery. It is his companion on explorations around streets and lanes, for local street food and so his tales are often infused with trademark ingredients. Reinterpreting a dahi vada ,he brings a dish to the shores of Kerala that has bowled us over.

How did the humble vada entire your life?

During my 12th grade tuition days in Indore , my friends and I would go for leisurely strolls to indulge in street food. There was one stall that sold sumptuous items.My most favourite was the dahi vada (dahi is yoghurt), and loved the way the cook prepared it. The consistency was just right and he always made it according to my taste, and often would be his treat. His son runs the stall now.

From vada to ice-cream?

The greatest joy for a chef is to innovate and present food that has a great visual appeal. When I thought of vada it immediately took me to the dahi vada. I thought of making a smoother version. I whisked the yoghurt until it got a smoother consistency, then I made a scoop out of it and stored it in the freezer.

So what’s the scoop about your treat?

It was an idea that I had in my mind for a while and wanted to experiment. It worked out on the first trial. The general conception is that dahi vada can only be enjoyed when the vada is immersed in a bowl full of yoghurt. I wanted to change this perception. While making the ice cream the trick is to use mild yoghurt, and not too sour. The acidity has to be balanced with tamarind sauce made from fresh tamarind pulp. It should be served at room temperature, and the ideal time is to serve it 30 minutes after removing it from the freezer, so you won’t have a thawed dish. (he slides the spoon through the scoop)

FWD-Foodshoot6

What is the one thing you truly appreciate about street food?

People say that street food is not hygienic. One thing I appreciate about street food is that their ingredients are fresh since they do not have storage facilities like a fridge. I have noticed the pani or water used for the pani puri will be fresh, while dahi is purchased every day, I must say that’s one thing that makes their food immensely tasty.

Which place fascinates you most for its street food culture?

Raised in Madhya Pradesh, I was fascinated by its diversity of culture. When you take a walk down the streets, there are food stalls brimming with all sorts of delicacies.People appreciate and enjoy these different varieties. I grew up with the belief that taste should never be compromised and customised to a particular place or cuisine. The best piece of advice I have received is, ‘you can compromise on your clothes but not on your food’.

Coastal Pride: Fish and Chips

FWD-Foodshoot

Chef-Rajeev-Menon

Chef Rajeev Menon
Executive Chef
Crowne Plaza
Kochi
His Pick: Fish & Chips

When chef Rajeev mentioned fish and chips for his innovative recommendation, we imagined a trip to London to enjoy what the British love – good old fish and chips; a perfect accompaniment to the sultry shades of cool weather. Smothered in some salt and soused with vinegar, the quintessential British dish instantly won over his palate. For the eight years he spent in London, and we were thrilled to see his interpretation.

Where did you find the most memorable order of fish and chips?

Croydon Market used to be a interesting place, especially on Sundays. I used to love the fish and chips there; they usually serve it with mushy peas and something local called malt vinegar which helps reduce the grease that is found in the fish. Borough Market, situated right under London’s railway lines and near the King’s Bridge. It is known as the melting pot of global cuisine.

How did fish ‘n chips make it from the street into a room with four walls?

Earlier, fish and chips wasn’t a meal that was very common, rather a dish that was enjoyed in the coastal areas. However, when the railways got built, fish became more accessible inland and could be transported to markets
in and around London. Soon, fish and chips grew popular in the mainland too.

How do you reinterpret the classic fish and chips?

I looked more into the technique used and the customisation of flavour. Instead of mushy peas, I prepared a purée that was fused with some mint. Fries are common; so I prepared it as fondant. In this French technique, the potatoes are slowly cooked in butter and stock and then placed into the oven. Much of the stock evaporates while only a residue remains in a mixture of garlic, thyme and chicken. Separately, the snapper fish was lightly fried as goujons. This was served with blanched tomatoes, for a hint of acidity.

FWD-Foodshoot

If you had to reinvent the dish, how would you do it?

Fish and chips roll would be interesting; the roll would have a spread of tartar sauce paired with a nice and crisp salad. What is your signature ingredient? For really good fish and chips the secret is the batter; it must be light. My signature ingredient is a pinch of turmeric. The barter looks more golden and the taste is not affected.

What do you love about street food culture?

When it comes to fine dining, things are so complicated, especially with the techniques. Street food is uncomplicated and simple and easily available, that’s a good thing for uncontrallable cravings.

Words, Styling and Conceptualisation by Atheena Wilson              Photographs by Arun Menon

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Travel

Pushkar: A kaleidoscope of emotions

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Akash Mehrotra from the blog Hand of Colors recounts his vivid experience of the Pushkar fair

Words and photographs by Akash Mehrotra

Pushkar had been hanging in my thoughts like a dream since long. The very idea of camels and traders journeying across the vast deserts of Rajasthan since time immemorial to meet, socialize, and trade; had aroused an inkling in me to experience it. I wished to wrap myself with such moments, a complete teleportation from the urbane life to a rustic one, from economy that survives on cars to one where camels form an integral part.
Pushkar has a magnetism of its own – it’s very unlike the way one imagines Rajasthan. Fair or not, it will never cease to sweep you off its feet. The antiquity of the town is inspiring. The everyday world of Pushkar does more than inspire and encourage well-being, it makes the routine seem novel.

I was in Pushkar at the most appropriate time. Everywhere I turned, I could hear music, see a riot of colours, feel the exuberance, and sense Pushkar’s ability to engage with tourists pouring in from across the world. And then there were the rustic hues of herders and their camels, trekking athwart the deserts.

The Pushkar fair

In the long evenings of autumn, when the moon starts its journey for the brightest night of the year, tribes from all over Rajasthan stream out onto the arid and stubbly fields of bajra, thickets, scrubs, and deserts, trudging with their beasts. Draped in turbans, they travel in rivulets of kaleidoscopic caravans. The women of the tribes are not far behind, clothed in their gypsy bright skirts swaying in autumn winds like daffodils, bright silver jewellery rivalling the smoldering sun, and sporting a big bright bindi on their forehead. And at a certain distance are scattered groups of travellers, some from different corners of the country and more from abroad. The annual animal fair has transformed into something far bigger, engaging and inviting.
Pushkar has grown, both as a colourful animal fair and an international tourist destination. While traders throng here to trade cattle, sheep, camels and thoroughbred horses; families, separated by miles, find it a common place to exchange greetings; and for tourists, it’s an escape from their urban world with a great deal of craft shopping and café hopping.

Looking forward

The day started early for us. The central area of the fair was crowded with visitors thronging the shops and eateries, while the herders and traders took the plains, focusing on their business. The colonisation of backpackers have made this a model town: a place created by and for the tourists, with multi-cuisine eateries, chic cafes, schools of yoga, massage, Indian music and dance, shops selling herbal cosmetics, perfumes and the clothing that characterises the backpacker diaspora. And it’s all there, shops feasting with colourful textiles, silver jewellery and crafts, town lost in backpacker’s thoughtless party reverie, locals engrossed in their daily chores playfully mixed with spiritual detours, houses with open courtyards with murals to keep you on click frenzy mode, nomads exhibiting their ravishing dreadlocks and loincloths and a gastronomic culture that has evolved due to mixing of myriad of cultures and aspirations. And as you wander in the narrow lanes of the town, these images turn clearer. The rooftops of medieval buildings with exquisite jharokhas have been turned into cafes, offering new vignettes of the lake with its ghats and the sprawl of temples and the town around the sacred lake. Some ancient courtyards have been turned into meditation centres. The key is to have enough time on hand, to pencil in such moments, after all everything in Pushkar moves at its own leisurely pace. From temple to temple, take your time to discover the cultural and spiritual nuances of the place.

The divine in Pushkar

In the evenings, as the sun slips into the valleys, the lake comes alive with the flickering of the lamps during the scenic aarti. The Pushkar Fair ends on a full moon night, and thankfully, I was there to bear witness to his heavenly spectacle. The ambience with lights twinkling in the twilight was ethereal. Drumbeats, clash of cymbals and chiming of bells herald the aarti on the final day i.e. on Purnima (full moon). Lamps are lit and placed all around the Ghat. I had seen its jamboree, its gay abandon, the way it has engaged with all cultures and left a part of it in them, and the way it has shaped itself to be a hot tourist destination.
Apart from all the spiritual, culinary, musical, and shopping adventures, you can hire a bike and go to Ratnagiri Hill for sublime views of the sunset over the lake. Take a one and a half hour hike up to Savitri Devi Temple from where the sky appears a fabulous canvass of delight most times of the year.

 

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Health

Take some tips from the world’s happiest man about happiness

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Learn the art of being happy and how it takes only 15 minutes of your time, from Matthieu Ricard

Text Credit: Shibul Pavithran 

Matthieu Ricard, a 71-year-old Tibetan Buddhist monk, has been hailed as the ‘world’s happiest man’ by scientists. Born in France, he grew up in an intellectual atmosphere – his father was a renowned philosopher and his mother a painter. Ricard went on to earn a Ph.D degree in molecular genetics, but left it all to become a monk in the Himalayas. And has been practicing meditation everyday from the age of 20.

He participated in a 12-year-long brain study that was conducted by Richard Davidson, a neuroscientist from the University of Wisconsin. The study’s focus was on the positive effects of meditation and compassion on the brain, and it was found that when Ricard meditated, his brain felt exceptionally light.

Image Source:

Take out 15 minutes from the day, sit down alone, and think happy thoughts. Yes, it’s as simple as that. Just train your mind to not think of sad or negative thoughts during this time. Consciously, focus on positive thoughts. It might be difficult in the beginning but gradually you can train your mind as you want. Nobody is an expert, when they start.. all good things take time.

This sounds oh-so-simple that we just might be tempted to dismiss it as one of these preachy mantras we all hear often but don’t have the time and patience to. Our mind is so preoccupied with a zillion things that we may find it easy to order a pizza but wouldn’t find 15 minutes for ourselves, so that we can be happy. After running on routines for sometime, our mind becomes fearful of experimentation. That’s the cause and culture of conditioning that we suffer from. Note: It is a self made condition.

 Image Source:

Training the mind is a very easy task, if you really try 

The human mind is a wonderful organ. It has limitless potential and is much stronger than we think it to be. It is possible to train it to do anything, even be happy. Matthieu says, “With mental training, we can always bring our level of happiness to a different level It’s like running. If I train, I might run a marathon. I might not become an Olympic champion, but there is a huge difference between training and not training. So why should that not apply to the mind?… There is a view that benevolence, attention, emotional balance and resilience are skills that can be trained. So if you put them all together, you could say that happiness is a skill that can be trained.”

Have a look at what Matthieu had to say when asked about happiness…

 

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Living

Its time for Pot-Anjali

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Baba Ramdev wants legalization of marijuana. Patanjali Cannabis?

Text Credit: Shibul Pavithran 

 

Never did we imagine we would find the words ‘Patanjali’ and ‘cannabis’ in the same sentence. Until now! In a country like ours where even the mere mention of weed and marijuana is enough to make some people feel awkward, the legalization of it seems way too far-fetched. But strangely, Baba Ramdev’s ‘Patanjali’ is making efforts towards the same and trying to make most of our population’s dreams come true. There have been been many issues which have been bouncing up and down in our country nowadays, like controversial movies, National Anthem, Beef-love/hate and many more. But ‘Pot-Anjali’ is definitely going to have some mixed reactions from the public. With a huge population of youth in the country using marijuana, Baba Ramdev is surely going to hit the market immensely. Patanjali’s is India’s highest selling consumer goods makers and their last year’s turn over was a whooping 10,561 crores.

It was only last year that India handed out the first ever license to grow and study the medicinal properties of cannabis was granted to the Council of Scientific and Medical Research (CSIR), in partnership with Mumbai-based firm, The Bombay Hemp Company. The research aims to study the many purposes medicinal marijuana could serve in the treatment of epilepsy and cancer — a notion often contested globally. Co-founder of The Bombay Hemp Company (BOHECO), Avnish Pandya, stated specifically, “It won’t be raw cannabis; it will be an actual product in the form of extracts, pills and patches.”

Image Source: Acharya Balkrishna

Now Patanjali is pushing for the same. Acharya Balkrishna, CEO of Patanjali, has voiced his opinion on the matter before, noting that by criminalizing marijuana, the nation was being denied ‘a full-fledged business opportunity’. In an  interview with Quartz,Balkrishna said, “In ayurveda, since ancient times, parts of cannabis (hemp), for instance, have been used for medicinal purposes. So, we are looking at various formulations. We should ponder over the benefits and positive uses of the cannabis plant.” He went on to list how the seeds of the plant were useful, the fibre could be used for clothes and so on; the only issue is with the toxic part known as THC — Tetrahydrocannabinol, the element inducing the high often experienced due to consumption of marijuana.

 

But before you get all excited and hope that you’ll soon be able to get your hands on ‘Patanjali Stash’ in the market, then we hate to break it to you that it won’t really give you the ‘high’ that you crave. ‘Toxic parts’ like THC or Tetrahydrocannabinol will be removed from the cannabis oil to make it fit for medicinal use.

via GIPHY

 

Nevertheles we are happy to see that the country is finally making some efforts to give the positive aspect of cannabis a chance. Who knows, it might even prove to be a boon for the country’s economy.

 

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