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Goa: A Perfect Melange

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fwd life Goa A Perfect Melange (1)

Endowed with natural beauty, cultural richness, and historical legacy; Goa has much to offer for every kind of traveller

Words by: Maya Lalchandani     Photographs: ibis Styles Goa Calangute and Maya Lalchandani

Everybody wants to visit Goa. It is India’s premier destination for beaches, relaxation, casinos, the sea and the sand. Be it for family vacations, a romantic break or a conference, it is definitely a most sought after land for merrymakers. Just 750 steps away from Tivai Beach in North Goa is the ibis Styles Goa Calangute Hotel. It is perfectly located in the happening area of Candolim, being only a short drive away from the beautiful white sand beaches and popular nightspots. Just half hour away from the airport, it turns out that the property is the first ibis Styles in India, offering leisure and business facilities to the discerning traveller.

Full of life

The hotel is cheerful as one enters the colourful lobby housing a big fishing boat right next to the reception. The whole design element is very joyous and eclectic all over the property. Reaching in time for a wonderful high tea in their multi-cuisine restaurant – ‘Spice It’ – created a sense of belonging already. It has a peppy décor with a simplicity that allures you with the colours they have used. The restaurant includes an a la carte menu, and guests enjoy live music in the evenings. Stepping outside, I see that the 197 rooms are built in such a way that all their little balconies face the three pools that the property boasts of. I see a DJ playing music for the revellers in the pool as the hotel supports pool sports activities, even providing the guests with Go Pro cameras to capture their underwater antics. The highlight of the activities provided here includes bicycles and I personally availed of the Jeep transfers provided for the beach visit and for trekking around the town.

fwd life Goa A Perfect Melange (1)

The rooms are equipped with comfortable, bouncy, signature queen-sized beds with adjoining doors that families with children can use. But snoozing all day would not be on the agenda for Goa has so much to offer. All the amenities of a luxury hotel, like a tea and coffee maker, LED TV, in-room safe, free Wifi, digital air-conditioning, work desk, hair dryer, complimentary Bisleri water, and a mini bar can be found here. After a lovely dinner at the Spice It, I was off in my Jeep to the wonderful Saturday night markets at Arpora.

fwd life Goa A Perfect Melange (3)

Out and about

Listening to live original bands is a high point in these parts. The amazing array of local and interesting gifts tempts you to buy even if the pocket doesn’t allow. These flea markets have a way of making people come out and network with each other. Alternately, there is much more on offer, like visiting local restaurants and experiencing a slice of the nightlife that Goa is so famous for. The next morning, as I watched the sun rise from my side of the bed, I realised that a dip in the pool would be the most energetic way to kickstart the day. I then proceeded with the breakfast buffet that is held from 7am to 11am.

The agenda for the day was to check out the churches assigned to me. Exploring the Mae de dues Church (Saligao), was a breathtaking sight with gothic spires and pristine white walls, situated in the typical Goan countryside. The St Alex Church, standing guard since the 1500s, is quite the tourist spot for lovers of architecture and design. The attractions being located at a close proximity to the hotel, gives the guest a sense of comfort and ease to be able get back indoors for tea. The hotel provides complementary Jeep transfers to the nearby beaches.

fwd life Goa A Perfect Melange (4)

The ones worth mentioning are Tivai (0.75km), Baga (2.5km) and Candolim (2.8 km). I chose Tivai where the sands are pristine white. Sparsely inhabited, it also has beach patrol with lifeguards. A feeling of calm envelops you as you step close to the spliced waves. The sky seems to touch the sea. A couple of hours are spent till sundown. It is a perfect way to end the day. An early start the next day took me to the well-equipped fitness centre in the hotel. A breakfast of spicy potato and coconut curry served with a soft and fluffy pao welcomed me later. The non-vegetarian alternative is the pita-like soft bread called Poi, stuffed with Goa’s famous pork sausages – chorizo. The all-day restaurant serves international and local cuisines with equal zest.

The following day started with a trip to Fort Aguada and its lighthouse. It is a well-preserved 17th century Portuguese fort standing at the Sinquerim Beach, overlooking the sea. From there, one is transported to a world of tradition and culture where one is introduced to sculpture and contemporary art at the Subodh Kerkar Art Gallery in the Museum of Goa. Rested after a siesta, I walked around the hotel and saw many kids playing in the various sports areas offered to children. They played football, table tennis, pool volleyball, and trampoline while their parents watched them calmly resting on massage chairs. A conference was silently taking place in the areas reserved for business. The hotel provides spaces for three official meeting rooms, equipped with highspeed Wifi Internet access areas.

fwd life Goa A Perfect Melange (2)

Goa seems to have it all and ibis Styles is situated bang in the middle of it. One can find adventure in an array of water sports like parasailing, banana boats and jet skis, all at nearby Baga and Anjuna Beaches. Shoppers can delight at the Mapusa Market (local Goan breads, and spices), and the Tibetan Market. Do not rule out the dolphin rides (17km away) and the nearby casinos. Goa is not only about churches. The Mahamaya Kalika Temple close by and not to skip, the world famous Decades Bar at night are worth a visit. And that is just touching the tip of the iceberg of what Goa can actually offer you.

How to reach

By road: Candolim Stop
By rail: Madgaon Station
By air: Dabolim Airport, Goa International Airport

IBIS STYLES GOA CALANGUTE

Survey 166
Naikawaddo
Calangute Bardez
Goa – 403516
India
Tel +91 8323016000

Digital version : https://goo.gl/uLcXW6

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Travel

Pushkar: A kaleidoscope of emotions

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Akash Mehrotra from the blog Hand of Colors recounts his vivid experience of the Pushkar fair

Words and photographs by Akash Mehrotra

Pushkar had been hanging in my thoughts like a dream since long. The very idea of camels and traders journeying across the vast deserts of Rajasthan since time immemorial to meet, socialize, and trade; had aroused an inkling in me to experience it. I wished to wrap myself with such moments, a complete teleportation from the urbane life to a rustic one, from economy that survives on cars to one where camels form an integral part.
Pushkar has a magnetism of its own – it’s very unlike the way one imagines Rajasthan. Fair or not, it will never cease to sweep you off its feet. The antiquity of the town is inspiring. The everyday world of Pushkar does more than inspire and encourage well-being, it makes the routine seem novel.

I was in Pushkar at the most appropriate time. Everywhere I turned, I could hear music, see a riot of colours, feel the exuberance, and sense Pushkar’s ability to engage with tourists pouring in from across the world. And then there were the rustic hues of herders and their camels, trekking athwart the deserts.

The Pushkar fair

In the long evenings of autumn, when the moon starts its journey for the brightest night of the year, tribes from all over Rajasthan stream out onto the arid and stubbly fields of bajra, thickets, scrubs, and deserts, trudging with their beasts. Draped in turbans, they travel in rivulets of kaleidoscopic caravans. The women of the tribes are not far behind, clothed in their gypsy bright skirts swaying in autumn winds like daffodils, bright silver jewellery rivalling the smoldering sun, and sporting a big bright bindi on their forehead. And at a certain distance are scattered groups of travellers, some from different corners of the country and more from abroad. The annual animal fair has transformed into something far bigger, engaging and inviting.
Pushkar has grown, both as a colourful animal fair and an international tourist destination. While traders throng here to trade cattle, sheep, camels and thoroughbred horses; families, separated by miles, find it a common place to exchange greetings; and for tourists, it’s an escape from their urban world with a great deal of craft shopping and café hopping.

Looking forward

The day started early for us. The central area of the fair was crowded with visitors thronging the shops and eateries, while the herders and traders took the plains, focusing on their business. The colonisation of backpackers have made this a model town: a place created by and for the tourists, with multi-cuisine eateries, chic cafes, schools of yoga, massage, Indian music and dance, shops selling herbal cosmetics, perfumes and the clothing that characterises the backpacker diaspora. And it’s all there, shops feasting with colourful textiles, silver jewellery and crafts, town lost in backpacker’s thoughtless party reverie, locals engrossed in their daily chores playfully mixed with spiritual detours, houses with open courtyards with murals to keep you on click frenzy mode, nomads exhibiting their ravishing dreadlocks and loincloths and a gastronomic culture that has evolved due to mixing of myriad of cultures and aspirations. And as you wander in the narrow lanes of the town, these images turn clearer. The rooftops of medieval buildings with exquisite jharokhas have been turned into cafes, offering new vignettes of the lake with its ghats and the sprawl of temples and the town around the sacred lake. Some ancient courtyards have been turned into meditation centres. The key is to have enough time on hand, to pencil in such moments, after all everything in Pushkar moves at its own leisurely pace. From temple to temple, take your time to discover the cultural and spiritual nuances of the place.

The divine in Pushkar

In the evenings, as the sun slips into the valleys, the lake comes alive with the flickering of the lamps during the scenic aarti. The Pushkar Fair ends on a full moon night, and thankfully, I was there to bear witness to his heavenly spectacle. The ambience with lights twinkling in the twilight was ethereal. Drumbeats, clash of cymbals and chiming of bells herald the aarti on the final day i.e. on Purnima (full moon). Lamps are lit and placed all around the Ghat. I had seen its jamboree, its gay abandon, the way it has engaged with all cultures and left a part of it in them, and the way it has shaped itself to be a hot tourist destination.
Apart from all the spiritual, culinary, musical, and shopping adventures, you can hire a bike and go to Ratnagiri Hill for sublime views of the sunset over the lake. Take a one and a half hour hike up to Savitri Devi Temple from where the sky appears a fabulous canvass of delight most times of the year.

 

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Living

Ushering Springtime in Ladakh

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photographs by Divya Prasad

The Dosmoche Festival marks the end of winters, making way for the colours of Spring

Words by  Divya Prasad

On a warm February morning, the cold winds coming from the far away mountains seemed to be asleep. Cymbals clank, trumpets sing, and drums play melodies of yore. Masked faces stand out amongst the blue skies and vast mountains. Prayers hummed in circles and a mist of incense smoke invade my senses on the narrow streets of Leh. Streets were filled with joy as the monks dance around and a sacred effigy makes its way through the lively by-lanes.
It is the time when the snowy peaks warm up, bursting in the colours of Spring. Little bazaars spring up in the lanes, selling happiness in packages to all. People from villages far away set out on a journey to honour and celebrate the Spring gods and goddesses. And Dosmoche marches forth, dancing in full glory.

Welcoming Spring

The Dosmoche festival marks the end of winter and is a ritualistic celebration to welcome the spring. Symbolically, these Bön Buddhist animalistic tantric rituals are performed to ward off evil spirits and bring purity of thoughts as the Spring season sets in. It is a time to gather; and consciously cleanse and purify life. Metaphorically, it signifies releasing the evils of winter by appeasing the deities.
The Lamas wear masks, each representing an animal and deity spirit. They perform the Cham dance, swaying to the rhythm of drums, trumpets, and cymbals. Their inner power rises to the sacred beats and the holy smoke of Juniper leaves. In circles, they dance away into a state of trance. The ‘Cham’ represents the triumph of good over evil.

The legend of Cham dance

The sacred Cham dance was conceived by Guru Padmasambhava when Samye Monsatery was built in Northern Tibet. In ancient times, the Cham dance was a secretive tantric dance, the knowledge of which was passed on to a few chosen Lamas. Some Cham dances are also passed on by master lamas through mystical dreams and visions. A Cham is performed after five days of deep meditation, rituals, and chanting. The Cham also incorporates the nine ‘rasas’ of dancing. The Janak attires worn while performing the Cham represent deities, demons, and animals. The Cham dance is beyond the physical realm; it is metaphysical since it requires the monks to be in a transcendental state by forgetting the self. To understand the deities and be them as a means to enlightenment in the rituals is the essence of Cham. Being the deity and exorcising the evil forces; and show them the path to light is the sole purpose of Cham. While performing the ‘Cham’, the dancers identify with a particular deity, invoke them and conceiving the very universe as a Mandala with the deity. It involves rigorous chanting, gestures of hand and feet, yet being in a blissful state of meditation.

Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhava performed the first Cham in 770 AD to ward off evil spirits lurking around while building the Samye monastery. King Trishong Detsen called upon Guru Padmasambhava and invited him to Tibet to resolve this issue. The King and the artisans observed that every night, the evil spirits destroyed all that was created in the monastery that was under construction. This was disturbing the sanctum of the monastery. Guru Padmasambhava invoked his Tantric powers and performed rituals inside the monastery to spiritually cleanse the sacred space. In one of the rituals, Guru Padmasambhava buried five threads under the ground where the monastery stood, donning masks and a Janak attire; invoking the Chamara deity. He thumped and swayed in a trance, performing powerful Tantric mudras and postures to banish the evil spirits. Guru Padmasambhava drew Thiks – a sacred line in all directions to ward off the evil spirits. The Thiks kept the evil spirits from entering the monastery’s sacred space. It is also believed that Padmasambhava created the Vajrakila Mandala on Mount Hepori – one of the four sacred mountains of Tibet which is located in the east of Samye monastery. By creating this powerful tantric Mandala, Guru Padmasabhava pacified all disharmonious elements and evil spirits. This further appeased the local spirits and helped spread Buddhism. Thus, the Samye monastery was built like a Mandala – a sacred geometric pattern. The monastery complex is a Mandala representing the Buddhist universe while the main temple is built as a Mandala representing Mount Meru at the centre of this universe.

The Vajrakila dance performed by Guru Padmasambhava is also known for pacifying the angry ghost of Mashang Drompakye who harmed humans. Through this Vajra dance, Guru Padmasambhava transformed the soul into light and returned it to Sukhavati – the land of bliss. Since then, the Cham was passed on to King Trisong Detsen, his wife, and the generations ahead. The knowledge of ‘Cham’ is unwritten and can only be passed on spiritually. Today, the ‘Cham’ lives in the hearts and souls of a few older monks.

I immersed myself in the trance of the mystical dance, soaking in the stories narrated by a Lama who proposed to be my storyteller for the hour. The dancers chopped the air with their swords; stomping the dusty earth and invoking deities in their transcendental states through movements and gestures. The storyteller lama explained that the sword symbolises wisdom and the evil is the ignorance within us and that the path to enlightenment is the purpose of Cham.

The ceremonies were performed, as the masked lamas danced around the pyre. The Champson lead the sacred effigy created of wool, threads, butter, and barley to a gathering ground for a ritual to welcome the magic of Spring. This effigy; made of barley flour and butter represents the evil forces, which is cut with a sword by the Champson who invokes the evil into his own body. The effigy constructed over months by the Lamas with rituals and meditation is burnt to ashes, as the evil confronts death.

To me, the festival of Dosmoche was a lesson on life. A hope that spring is inevitable after a winter. That joy exists in each withering moments of life, if we can find the light in them. I feel grateful to have been a part of this sacred festival in the winters of Ladakh. While the wind carried its blessings through the ‘Lungtas’ fluttering high up in the snowy mountains, and prayers voiced through hearts; these mystical tales of light sprung forth in my heart.

Author bio:
A travel blogger at Obsessive Compulsive Traveller, Divya Prasad is also an energy healer and Sacred Geometric Artist at Iktomi

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Living

Untouched Kumbalangi

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A trip to Kumabalangi reveals a village preserved in tradition and the wisdom of past generations

We didn’t choose our destination; it chose us, in the form of Kumbalangi. A suburb of Kochi, Kumbalangi is the first integrated model tourism and fisheries village of India. It is a paradise with water and lush greenery consuming the sins of ‘modern development’ and striking a critical balance on behalf of nature.
To read more about Akhil Joshy’s account of his visit to Kumbalangi, grab a copy of the latest issue of FWD Life’s Travel Special issue Dec-Jan 2018.

Words by Akhil Joshy                                 Photographs from Wandertrails

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