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Exploring The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan

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FWD Life Exploring The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan (1)

Revisit the splendour of the desert and elegance of a younger generation of royals through the Narendra Bhavan in Bikaner

Words by: Maya Lalchandani   Images: Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner

When one starts to tell a story, the first thing that appears are the memories that refuse to fade, the pictures forming a collage in one’s mind’s eye. The colors, the textures, the feelings, the food, all match with a need to revisit. Rajasthan is that state, which puts one in a repetitive mode. All the cities resound with a haunting pullback – Jaipur, Udaipur, Pushkar, Jaisalmer and now Bikaner. The story of Narendra Bhawan has brought it back into the tourism pages by Manvendra Singh Shekhawat. Stepping onto the sands of Rajasthan, one travels first to Jaipur and then onward to Bikaner. The countryside feels like a desert and transports you into an era of old world charm and regalia. Bikaner is undoubtedly one of the most historic and stunning cities in Rajasthan and with its 500 year old history, its famous snacks and sweetmeats, the ever-so-beautiful havelis, forts and temples, bring people back year after year. The Narendra Bhawan- a new avatar that retells the story of the last reigning King – His Highness, Narendra Singhji (1948-2003).

FWD Life The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan (2)

The Lobby

Vision of Luxury

No, this is not going to be a history lesson, but it’s’ important to know what happened in a space so opulent that when your head touches the pillow, your consciousness is curiously aroused. The King actually turned his head away from the lifestyle of his forefathers, but filled his home with new tastes and vision, peppered with the legacy that he inherited. One can see the global vivant in the new structure, the story revealing a stylishly designed hotel, set in an urban landscape, curated to share lives and times and the modernity of man. As if as a reminder of the days gone by, the entrance houses a Gaushala as a tribute to Lord Krishna, where one’s evenings are party to the Rasa Leela in play, with hors d’oeuvres and cocktails that are served to beguile the nimble mind. The Verandah, an outdoor lounging area much unlike the usual lobby, is filled with modern Indian furniture, Portuguese tiles and tribal artworks. Just as you begin to ponder over the relaxed easy charm, you encounter a library filled with Penguin classics. A nod to the left brings you to a glimpse of the Mad Hatter- the Bake House. Whimsical and familiar, two words that bring you bang down to earth as you are introduced to a man of the moment – Mr. Karan Singh, the President of MRS Hospitality. A smile playing on his lips, you realise that the entrance is grand and so is he.The Mad Hatter plays the prelude to the Pearls & Chiffon (P&C), an elegant space, where most of the dining is undertaken. With a curated wine list, the hospitality and offerings of the local cuisine excels itself. One walks away, satiated but discovering more in the form of all its nooks and crannies, opening out into gold and crystal rooms that offer smoking areas for gentlemen, and places that offer after dinner drinks and conversations.

FWD Life The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan (1)

Pearls and Chiffon

Encounter Royal Elegance

As is the culture of Rajasthan, courtyards are a big part of living. So also in Narendra Bhawan, is the Diwali Chowk, (the Central Courtyard) that is dotted with canopies, where the pigeons come to greet you and the winds softly caress you as you spend time reading or just day dreaming. The open sky changes hues as the clouds sweep in and out. On the top floor the infinity pool shares the view with the party space, offering grills and party music. As designer Ayush Kasliwal of Jaipur has used research as inspiration, and in so doing, this eclectic hotel residence allows sightings of velveteen fabrics, chiffons, art deco walls, remnants of travel memorabilia and broadway shows. Narendra Bhawan was originally built in 1969, but acquired by Shekhawat in 2005, who has managed to salvage an era of history, truly a slice of the King’s past. A kings accommodation can be seen in the 82 rooms that spread out over four floors, being divided into Residence rooms, Prince rooms, Regimental rooms, India rooms and Republic suites.

FWD Life The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan (3)

The Residence Room

After all, this royalty with a hint of sanctuary is the overall promise. Comfortable at 330 sq ft, the Residence rooms are light and fresh with elaborate ceilings, while the Prince rooms at 530 sq ft fall into the category of youthful exuberance, with a sort of western influence. The Regimental rooms at 634 sq ft have objets d’art that add to the hues of uniformity and symmetry. The India rooms (like their name) are for the cosmopolitan traveller, a lot of Indigo reigns, for comfort. The Republic suites are chic to the core and can easily be termed the architects’ rooms. The rooms are but a hint of the different stages of the King’s life. Everything about Bikaner and Narendra Bhawan borders on the holistic and cultural. Their Clinic Spa is based on flower essences and those who have heard of the famous therapist Dr. Bach, will enjoy the harmony and balance that the Spa offers. Also on offer are Physical Vascular Therapy, that improves microcirculation enabling the body to work in different ways.

Curated Experiences

Frequent travellers these days are so done with just being offered great décor and elaborate surroundings; they are more ready for the experiences that a hotel can offer. Taking all that into consideration, the Narendra Bhawan team offers some unique experiences to complete their hospitality. They have ably tapped into the experiences and the originality from the past and presented them with such charm and mystique. The days are saved for the little city of Bikaner, as everybody shares the history of the bountiful trade the nobles and the merchants continued in the bylanes where they built more palaces, havelis and temples. One is transported by tanga, since the lanes are narrow and the cows roam freely. The havelis take one’s breath away with their intricate designs and haloed walls, their magnificent art and their ancient architecture. Part of the Merchant Exploration is that the hotel organises an authentic meal cooked in desi style and serves it right there in the Haveli. Authenticity at its best. After the meal, a Royal Exploration is not far from the mind. Bikaner’s 500 years old story unfolds with the Bhikajee Tekaree, Laxminath temple, Sadul Museum, Lalgarh Palace, and the Royal Cenotaphs at Devi Kund Sagar. The Karni Mata temple is by far the strangest site to visit as it’s famous for the legion of rats that are fêted and worshipped. Not to be forgotten is the Junagarh Fort (1593), and the Durbar Hall that actually preserves a 1,100 year old Sandalwood throne. A tourist delight, now made possible and wonderful with the Narendra Bhawan, a sanctuary for the royal traveller.

FWD Life The Vibrant Hues of Rajasthan (4)

The Sundowner

In the evening, one is taken for a sundowner, deep into the heart of Bikaner, amongst the sand dunes and the shrubs, a place away from the hustle and the bustle. The bar is set and amongst the chatter of guests while uniformed staff top off glasses with gin and tonic and serve Mughlai food consisting of succulent meats. Under the beautiful dark sky, a flautist leads the way with his haunting melodies. Gaddas are strewn on the ground, white sheets are spread, canopies risen, everything is spic and span, lamps are lit and the sky lends its stars for more. The night is young, as one is driven back to more royalty. A nine course dinner at the Laxmi Niwas Palace is a must as the hotel sets up a dining experience right there on the sprawling lawns, in front of the picturesque Palace, resplendent in its power to impress – after all, the Maharaja had used the same ground to host dignitaries. Amongst the starry skies, the candles lit and, the flowers strewn, and the single malts flowing, the scene was set for a script.

Digital Version: https://goo.gl/Bs9vlq

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Travel

Pushkar: A kaleidoscope of emotions

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Akash Mehrotra from the blog Hand of Colors recounts his vivid experience of the Pushkar fair

Words and photographs by Akash Mehrotra

Pushkar had been hanging in my thoughts like a dream since long. The very idea of camels and traders journeying across the vast deserts of Rajasthan since time immemorial to meet, socialize, and trade; had aroused an inkling in me to experience it. I wished to wrap myself with such moments, a complete teleportation from the urbane life to a rustic one, from economy that survives on cars to one where camels form an integral part.
Pushkar has a magnetism of its own – it’s very unlike the way one imagines Rajasthan. Fair or not, it will never cease to sweep you off its feet. The antiquity of the town is inspiring. The everyday world of Pushkar does more than inspire and encourage well-being, it makes the routine seem novel.

I was in Pushkar at the most appropriate time. Everywhere I turned, I could hear music, see a riot of colours, feel the exuberance, and sense Pushkar’s ability to engage with tourists pouring in from across the world. And then there were the rustic hues of herders and their camels, trekking athwart the deserts.

The Pushkar fair

In the long evenings of autumn, when the moon starts its journey for the brightest night of the year, tribes from all over Rajasthan stream out onto the arid and stubbly fields of bajra, thickets, scrubs, and deserts, trudging with their beasts. Draped in turbans, they travel in rivulets of kaleidoscopic caravans. The women of the tribes are not far behind, clothed in their gypsy bright skirts swaying in autumn winds like daffodils, bright silver jewellery rivalling the smoldering sun, and sporting a big bright bindi on their forehead. And at a certain distance are scattered groups of travellers, some from different corners of the country and more from abroad. The annual animal fair has transformed into something far bigger, engaging and inviting.
Pushkar has grown, both as a colourful animal fair and an international tourist destination. While traders throng here to trade cattle, sheep, camels and thoroughbred horses; families, separated by miles, find it a common place to exchange greetings; and for tourists, it’s an escape from their urban world with a great deal of craft shopping and café hopping.

Looking forward

The day started early for us. The central area of the fair was crowded with visitors thronging the shops and eateries, while the herders and traders took the plains, focusing on their business. The colonisation of backpackers have made this a model town: a place created by and for the tourists, with multi-cuisine eateries, chic cafes, schools of yoga, massage, Indian music and dance, shops selling herbal cosmetics, perfumes and the clothing that characterises the backpacker diaspora. And it’s all there, shops feasting with colourful textiles, silver jewellery and crafts, town lost in backpacker’s thoughtless party reverie, locals engrossed in their daily chores playfully mixed with spiritual detours, houses with open courtyards with murals to keep you on click frenzy mode, nomads exhibiting their ravishing dreadlocks and loincloths and a gastronomic culture that has evolved due to mixing of myriad of cultures and aspirations. And as you wander in the narrow lanes of the town, these images turn clearer. The rooftops of medieval buildings with exquisite jharokhas have been turned into cafes, offering new vignettes of the lake with its ghats and the sprawl of temples and the town around the sacred lake. Some ancient courtyards have been turned into meditation centres. The key is to have enough time on hand, to pencil in such moments, after all everything in Pushkar moves at its own leisurely pace. From temple to temple, take your time to discover the cultural and spiritual nuances of the place.

The divine in Pushkar

In the evenings, as the sun slips into the valleys, the lake comes alive with the flickering of the lamps during the scenic aarti. The Pushkar Fair ends on a full moon night, and thankfully, I was there to bear witness to his heavenly spectacle. The ambience with lights twinkling in the twilight was ethereal. Drumbeats, clash of cymbals and chiming of bells herald the aarti on the final day i.e. on Purnima (full moon). Lamps are lit and placed all around the Ghat. I had seen its jamboree, its gay abandon, the way it has engaged with all cultures and left a part of it in them, and the way it has shaped itself to be a hot tourist destination.
Apart from all the spiritual, culinary, musical, and shopping adventures, you can hire a bike and go to Ratnagiri Hill for sublime views of the sunset over the lake. Take a one and a half hour hike up to Savitri Devi Temple from where the sky appears a fabulous canvass of delight most times of the year.

 

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Living

Ushering Springtime in Ladakh

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photographs by Divya Prasad

The Dosmoche Festival marks the end of winters, making way for the colours of Spring

Words by  Divya Prasad

On a warm February morning, the cold winds coming from the far away mountains seemed to be asleep. Cymbals clank, trumpets sing, and drums play melodies of yore. Masked faces stand out amongst the blue skies and vast mountains. Prayers hummed in circles and a mist of incense smoke invade my senses on the narrow streets of Leh. Streets were filled with joy as the monks dance around and a sacred effigy makes its way through the lively by-lanes.
It is the time when the snowy peaks warm up, bursting in the colours of Spring. Little bazaars spring up in the lanes, selling happiness in packages to all. People from villages far away set out on a journey to honour and celebrate the Spring gods and goddesses. And Dosmoche marches forth, dancing in full glory.

Welcoming Spring

The Dosmoche festival marks the end of winter and is a ritualistic celebration to welcome the spring. Symbolically, these Bön Buddhist animalistic tantric rituals are performed to ward off evil spirits and bring purity of thoughts as the Spring season sets in. It is a time to gather; and consciously cleanse and purify life. Metaphorically, it signifies releasing the evils of winter by appeasing the deities.
The Lamas wear masks, each representing an animal and deity spirit. They perform the Cham dance, swaying to the rhythm of drums, trumpets, and cymbals. Their inner power rises to the sacred beats and the holy smoke of Juniper leaves. In circles, they dance away into a state of trance. The ‘Cham’ represents the triumph of good over evil.

The legend of Cham dance

The sacred Cham dance was conceived by Guru Padmasambhava when Samye Monsatery was built in Northern Tibet. In ancient times, the Cham dance was a secretive tantric dance, the knowledge of which was passed on to a few chosen Lamas. Some Cham dances are also passed on by master lamas through mystical dreams and visions. A Cham is performed after five days of deep meditation, rituals, and chanting. The Cham also incorporates the nine ‘rasas’ of dancing. The Janak attires worn while performing the Cham represent deities, demons, and animals. The Cham dance is beyond the physical realm; it is metaphysical since it requires the monks to be in a transcendental state by forgetting the self. To understand the deities and be them as a means to enlightenment in the rituals is the essence of Cham. Being the deity and exorcising the evil forces; and show them the path to light is the sole purpose of Cham. While performing the ‘Cham’, the dancers identify with a particular deity, invoke them and conceiving the very universe as a Mandala with the deity. It involves rigorous chanting, gestures of hand and feet, yet being in a blissful state of meditation.

Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhava performed the first Cham in 770 AD to ward off evil spirits lurking around while building the Samye monastery. King Trishong Detsen called upon Guru Padmasambhava and invited him to Tibet to resolve this issue. The King and the artisans observed that every night, the evil spirits destroyed all that was created in the monastery that was under construction. This was disturbing the sanctum of the monastery. Guru Padmasambhava invoked his Tantric powers and performed rituals inside the monastery to spiritually cleanse the sacred space. In one of the rituals, Guru Padmasambhava buried five threads under the ground where the monastery stood, donning masks and a Janak attire; invoking the Chamara deity. He thumped and swayed in a trance, performing powerful Tantric mudras and postures to banish the evil spirits. Guru Padmasambhava drew Thiks – a sacred line in all directions to ward off the evil spirits. The Thiks kept the evil spirits from entering the monastery’s sacred space. It is also believed that Padmasambhava created the Vajrakila Mandala on Mount Hepori – one of the four sacred mountains of Tibet which is located in the east of Samye monastery. By creating this powerful tantric Mandala, Guru Padmasabhava pacified all disharmonious elements and evil spirits. This further appeased the local spirits and helped spread Buddhism. Thus, the Samye monastery was built like a Mandala – a sacred geometric pattern. The monastery complex is a Mandala representing the Buddhist universe while the main temple is built as a Mandala representing Mount Meru at the centre of this universe.

The Vajrakila dance performed by Guru Padmasambhava is also known for pacifying the angry ghost of Mashang Drompakye who harmed humans. Through this Vajra dance, Guru Padmasambhava transformed the soul into light and returned it to Sukhavati – the land of bliss. Since then, the Cham was passed on to King Trisong Detsen, his wife, and the generations ahead. The knowledge of ‘Cham’ is unwritten and can only be passed on spiritually. Today, the ‘Cham’ lives in the hearts and souls of a few older monks.

I immersed myself in the trance of the mystical dance, soaking in the stories narrated by a Lama who proposed to be my storyteller for the hour. The dancers chopped the air with their swords; stomping the dusty earth and invoking deities in their transcendental states through movements and gestures. The storyteller lama explained that the sword symbolises wisdom and the evil is the ignorance within us and that the path to enlightenment is the purpose of Cham.

The ceremonies were performed, as the masked lamas danced around the pyre. The Champson lead the sacred effigy created of wool, threads, butter, and barley to a gathering ground for a ritual to welcome the magic of Spring. This effigy; made of barley flour and butter represents the evil forces, which is cut with a sword by the Champson who invokes the evil into his own body. The effigy constructed over months by the Lamas with rituals and meditation is burnt to ashes, as the evil confronts death.

To me, the festival of Dosmoche was a lesson on life. A hope that spring is inevitable after a winter. That joy exists in each withering moments of life, if we can find the light in them. I feel grateful to have been a part of this sacred festival in the winters of Ladakh. While the wind carried its blessings through the ‘Lungtas’ fluttering high up in the snowy mountains, and prayers voiced through hearts; these mystical tales of light sprung forth in my heart.

Author bio:
A travel blogger at Obsessive Compulsive Traveller, Divya Prasad is also an energy healer and Sacred Geometric Artist at Iktomi

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Living

Untouched Kumbalangi

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A trip to Kumabalangi reveals a village preserved in tradition and the wisdom of past generations

We didn’t choose our destination; it chose us, in the form of Kumbalangi. A suburb of Kochi, Kumbalangi is the first integrated model tourism and fisheries village of India. It is a paradise with water and lush greenery consuming the sins of ‘modern development’ and striking a critical balance on behalf of nature.
To read more about Akhil Joshy’s account of his visit to Kumbalangi, grab a copy of the latest issue of FWD Life’s Travel Special issue Dec-Jan 2018.

Words by Akhil Joshy                                 Photographs from Wandertrails

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